KAMPAI!

THE AWS-PITTSBURGH BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO SAKE

This summer, our “unofficial” tasting is going to be Sake with a lesson in making Sushi!  The sushi lesson will be conducted by our own Ellen Barner at the beautiful Casa Altimus, and the tasting will be a “freestyle” sampling of several (not all) types of sake.  Details will follow soon.

Unless you’re an avid sake drinker, it can be hard to know where to begin. To help you navigate the world of sake, we’ve done plenty of research.  We hope that this article will answer a few questions.  Feel free to print it and bring it to the tasting.

SAKE 101

What is sake? Ask this question in Japan versus the rest of the world, and you’ll get two different answers.

In English, “sake” refers to the alcoholic fermented rice beverage from Japan that you’ve probably sampled at your local Japanese restaurant (or local sake bar, if you’re lucky!). But ask for “sake” in Japan and you may get a questioning look. In Japanese, “sake” refers to all alcoholic drinks in general. That includes beer, wine, liquor, and the beverage we call “sake” in English.

So what do the Japanese call “sake”? In Japanese, the word for what we refer to as sake is nihonshu. Nihonshu translates as “Japanese alcohol,” and if you ask for nihonshu at an izakaya you will be greeted with a smile. Language lesson aside, we will be referring to this wonderful beverage as sake in this article, to keep things as simple as possible.

KEY SAKE WORDS

One of the interesting things about sake is that there are so many different types and variations, but this is also one of the most overwhelming things for sake beginners! To start with the basics, here are some key concepts and terms that will help you to understand this beverage.

POLISHING

One of the first steps in sake making is the polishing of the rice. Prior to the actual sake making process the rice kernel has to be “polished”, or milled, to remove the outer layer of each grain, exposing its core.

To get some perspective on rice polishing, keep in mind that to get from brown rice to white rice, you need to polish rice to about 90% (i.e., polishing off 10%).

To produce good sake, you need to polish much more than that. We’ll get into more detail below, but for now keep in mind that good sake is usually polished to between about 50%-70% (i.e., from 30% to 50% is polished off). So if you read that sake has been polished to 60%, it means 40% of the original rice kernel has been polished away, leaving it just 60% of its original size.

JUNMAI

Junmai is the Japanese word meaning “pure rice.” This is an important word in the world of sake, as it separates the pure rice sake from the non-pure rice sake.

Junmai is brewed using only rice, water, yeast, and koji. There are no other additives, such as sugar or alcohol. Unless a bottle of sake says “junmai” (this will be written in Japanese as 純米), it will have added brewers alcohol and/or other additives.

While junmai sounds like a good thing (and it usually is!), just because a sake is not junmai does not mean it is inferior. Additives such as distilled brewer’s alcohol are used by skilled brewers to change and enhance flavor profiles and aromas, and can make for some very smooth and easy-to-drink sake.

TYPES OF SAKE

Understanding the polishing and junmai will help you see the differences between the different types of sake. There are so many different types of sake that, to keep things simple, we’re only going to focus on some major types and classifications. Along with a good cup of sake, this is all you need to enjoy some sake tasting at a specialty sake shop, bar or izakaya.

You can classify sake by factors including: the type of rice used, where it was produced, the degree to which the rice has been polished, brewing processes, how it was filtered, and more.

We want you to enjoy the sake tasting, not overwhelm you! Here is a list of the main types and classifications of sake you might come across. If you learn just some (or all) of these, you’ll know more about sake than 99% of the travelers who visit Japan!

JUNMAI

As mentioned above, junmai refers to pure rice (純米) (non-additive) sake. Additionally, the junmai classification means that the rice used has been polished to at least 70% (meaning the percentage number you’ll see on the bottle is 70% or lower, i.e., 61-70%) and at least 30% has been polished off. While it’s hard to over-generalize, junmai sake tends to have a rich full body with an intense, slightly acidic flavor. This type of sake can be particularly nice when served warm or at room temperature.

HONJOZO

Honjozo (本醸造) also uses rice that has been polished to at least 70% (as with junmai above). However, honjozo by definition contains a small amount of distilled brewers alcohol, which is added to smooth out the flavor and aroma of the sake. Honjozo sake is often light and easy to drink, and can be enjoyed either warm or chilled.

GINJO & JUNMAI GINJO

Ginjo (吟醸) is premium sake that uses rice that has been polished to at least 60% (meaning the percentage number you’ll see on the bottle is 60% or lower, i.e., 51-60%) and at least 40% has been polished away. It’s brewed using special yeast and fermenting techniques. The result is often a light, fruity and complex flavor that’s very fragrant. It’s easy to drink and often (though not as a rule) served chilled.

Junmai ginjo is simply ginjo sake that also fits the “pure rice” (no additives) definition.

DAIGINJO & JUNMAI DAIGINJO

Daiginjo (大吟醸) is super premium sake (hence the “dai,” or “big”) and is regarded by many as the pinnacle of the art. It requires precise brewing methods and uses rice that has been polished down to at least 50% (meaning the percentage number you’ll see on the bottle is 50% or lower). Daiginjo sake is often relatively pricey and are usually served chilled to bring out the light, complex flavors and aromas.

NOTE: As mentioned above, the more that the rice has been polished the higher the classification level. However, don’t jump to the conclusion that just because they polish the rice more the sake will be better. Ginjo and daiginjo sake is generally considered higher-end and is often more sought-after by sake experts, though often sake experts also love the cheaper local sake, as long as it’s made from quality ingredients by good brewers. Ultimately you should trust your own palate and preferences.

FUTSUSHU

Futsushu (普通種) is sometimes referred to as table sake. The rice has barely been polished (somewhere between 93%-70%), and, even though we’re definitely not qualified to be sake snobs, is the only one we would not recommend. Surprisingly, you can get really good-quality sakes for very reasonable prices, so unless you’re looking for a bad hangover (and not-so-special flavor), try staying away from futsushu.

SHIBORITATE

Although sake is not generally aged like wine, it’s usually allowed to mature for around 6 months or more while the flavors mellow out. However, shiboritate (しぼりたて) sake goes directly from the presses into the bottles and out to market. People tend to love it or hate it. Shiboritate sake tends to be wild and fruity; some even compare it to white wine.

NAMA-ZAKE

Most sake is pasteurized twice: once just after brewing, and once more before shipping. Nama-zake (生酒) is unique in that it is unpasteurized, and as such it has to be refrigerated to be kept fresh. While it of course also depends on other factors, it often has a fresh, fruity flavor with a sweet aroma.

NIGORI

Nigori (濁り) sake is cloudy white and coarsely filtered with very small bits of rice floating around in it. It’s usually sweet and creamy, and can range from silky smooth to thick and chunky.

JIZAKE

Ji-zake (地酒) means “local sake” and is a word to keep in mind when traveling to different regions of Japan. Sake is brewed throughout the country, and good jizake usually goes extremely well with each region’s local cuisine and since it’s local, it’s also usually fresh and inexpensive.

WHAT NEXT?

The best way to really gain an appreciation for and understanding of sake is to drink it! So get out there and taste some sake. You may be surprised to find you have particular type, style, and temperature you like best.

Kanpai (cheers)!