If you read our most recent blog, you might not be a
sake expert, but at least you know that it's rice wine, right? Well, not
exactly. Calling sake "rice wine" isn’t correct. As AWS members, we
know that wine is fermented grape juice. Rice doesn't qualify, so calling
rice-based sake wine is incorrect.
We pointed out in the last blog that sake is made
from polished rice kernels that are converted into sugar with the help of a
special kind of mold. Grapes, as opposed to rice, already contain the sugars
needed to turn into alcohol. In other words, no special mold is required in
wine making. It's the mold that sets sake apart.
Sake makers spread the mold over steamed rice and
leave it for about two days. The mold is called koji-kin before it is added to
the rice and simply koji once it’s developed on the rice kernel. The koji-kin
converts the starch into sugar, which, with the addition of yeast, then
ferments and creates the alcohol. Once the rice ferments and becomes a sort of
mash, it is pressed and strained to produce the final product. That's the
abbreviated version of sake making.
While it may be closer to beer than wine, sake is
really its own, distinct beverage. It’s
a very unique alcoholic drink that came from Japan, but not a wine or beer. Its
method of processing is so different from wine and beer that it needs to be
recognized as such.
Sake is often consumed quickly without much thought.
There's a lot going on in each sip of sake, though. All you have to do is pay
attention. Here are a few basic tips to take the intimidation factor out of
your sake explorations.
GLASSWARE
The small ceramic cups used for hot sake (called
o-chokos) aren't the best way to experience good sake. White wine glasses are a
better choice, since they give you room to smell the sake and let it open up. Rustic
styles of sake such as Honjozo, Junmai, and Kimoto/Yamahai are best in a
smaller glass, while Ginjo/Daiginjo styles benefit from a glass with a larger
bulb. There's no need to run out and purchase a set of sake glasses for
drinking at home. The wine glasses you
already own will be fine.
COLOR
Fresh sake in good condition should be relatively
clear. It may have a slight straw tone or even greenish hues, but if you see
more tan or brownish tints, it could very well be sake that's past its prime or
approaching oxidation. It should also be free of floating sediments, unless it
is nigori (cloudy) sake.
AROMA
Once you've selected a glass that gives you some
room for movement, give your sake a few swirls to release the aromas. This can
reveal positive characteristics about the sake, as well as off notes. Floral,
tropical, and earthy scents are all a good sign, but if you smell burnt and
musty notes, that's bad.
Earthiness, smokiness, and rice aromas are
indicative of more rustic styles, while fruity and floral notes are more
characteristic of Ginjo/Daiginjo and unpasteurized types of sake.
The fragrance of sake is often broken down into
three experiences: the "uwadachi-ka," or "initial smell,"
rises from the sake before tasting. These include sake's more obvious
characteristics, such as the earthiness of junmai styles and fruitiness of
ginjo.
The second part, "fukumi-ka," describes
the new fragrances that are introduced by breathing through the nose while sake
is being tasted. The "fukumi-ka" reveals elements of the sake that
provide balance; astringency and bitterness should be present, but neither in
excess.
The "modori-ka" is the third dimension of
aroma, those present in the finish of the sake after you've sipped it. These
subtler aromas often include notes like star anise, fennel, and white pepper.
FLAVOR AND TEXTURE
When you’re tasting sake, look for flavors that
confirm your initial impressions of the sake's aroma. You can also evaluate the
texture of the sake. Honjozo styles are meant to be pretty straightforward with
a light texture. Junmai sakes are richer and the overall impact tends to be
more powerful.
TEMPERATURE
James Bond: “No, no. I like sake. Especially when
it's served at the correct temperature, 98.4 degrees Fahrenheit, like this is.”
Although Bond knew his stuff, we’d like you to try
each of the sakes at different temperatures.
Sake is one of the most flexible alcoholic beverages when it comes to
serving temperature. Find one that you
enjoy and pour yourself a glass right out of the fridge. Take a sip every five
minutes and note changes in taste as the sake slowly warms to room temperature.
You'll be amazed at the variations in flavor and impression. Earthier, richer
styles of sake can be especially good at room temperature or just warmer; the
warmth enhances the sweetness and umami of the sake. Fruitier styles can be very
tasty when served slightly chilled.
DRYNESS AND SWEETNESS: SAKE METER VALUE
Here's a game to try: before you look at the SMV
that appears on the label of your sake, evaluate whether the sake tastes dry or
sweet to you. SMV stands for the Sake Meter Value, or "nihonshu-do".
The SMV system measures the density of sake compared to the density of water. Sake
with more residual sugar will be heavier, so the SMV measures sweetness.
Negative numbers on the scale (as low as -5 or so) are the sweetest. Sakes with
a +10 SMV are considered dry, or "karakuchi," while sakes with a +15
SMV are considered extra dry, or "cho-karakuchi." It might be
difficult to tell the difference in sweetness between two sakes with +3 and +4
SMV value, but you'll taste big differences between a -5 and a +7. Presence of
acidity in the sake may make it taste less sweet despite residual sugars being
present.
HAVE FUN!
Take your time as you explore sake, and don't worry
about getting the answers 'right' because everyone's palate is different. Consider the scent, the color, flavor, and
texture, how sweet it is and what temperature makes it taste the best to you.
You'll learn about sake, and you'll learn about what kinds of sakes you prefer.
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