Tuesday, May 16, 2017

Futatabi kanpai!



If you read our most recent blog, you might not be a sake expert, but at least you know that it's rice wine, right? Well, not exactly. Calling sake "rice wine" isn’t correct. As AWS members, we know that wine is fermented grape juice. Rice doesn't qualify, so calling rice-based sake wine is incorrect.

We pointed out in the last blog that sake is made from polished rice kernels that are converted into sugar with the help of a special kind of mold. Grapes, as opposed to rice, already contain the sugars needed to turn into alcohol. In other words, no special mold is required in wine making. It's the mold that sets sake apart.

Sake makers spread the mold over steamed rice and leave it for about two days. The mold is called koji-kin before it is added to the rice and simply koji once it’s developed on the rice kernel. The koji-kin converts the starch into sugar, which, with the addition of yeast, then ferments and creates the alcohol. Once the rice ferments and becomes a sort of mash, it is pressed and strained to produce the final product. That's the abbreviated version of sake making.

While it may be closer to beer than wine, sake is really its own, distinct beverage.  It’s a very unique alcoholic drink that came from Japan, but not a wine or beer. Its method of processing is so different from wine and beer that it needs to be recognized as such.

Sake is often consumed quickly without much thought. There's a lot going on in each sip of sake, though. All you have to do is pay attention. Here are a few basic tips to take the intimidation factor out of your sake explorations.

GLASSWARE

The small ceramic cups used for hot sake (called o-chokos) aren't the best way to experience good sake. White wine glasses are a better choice, since they give you room to smell the sake and let it open up. Rustic styles of sake such as Honjozo, Junmai, and Kimoto/Yamahai are best in a smaller glass, while Ginjo/Daiginjo styles benefit from a glass with a larger bulb. There's no need to run out and purchase a set of sake glasses for drinking at home.  The wine glasses you already own will be fine.

COLOR

Fresh sake in good condition should be relatively clear. It may have a slight straw tone or even greenish hues, but if you see more tan or brownish tints, it could very well be sake that's past its prime or approaching oxidation. It should also be free of floating sediments, unless it is nigori (cloudy) sake.

AROMA

Once you've selected a glass that gives you some room for movement, give your sake a few swirls to release the aromas. This can reveal positive characteristics about the sake, as well as off notes. Floral, tropical, and earthy scents are all a good sign, but if you smell burnt and musty notes, that's bad.
Earthiness, smokiness, and rice aromas are indicative of more rustic styles, while fruity and floral notes are more characteristic of Ginjo/Daiginjo and unpasteurized types of sake.

The fragrance of sake is often broken down into three experiences: the "uwadachi-ka," or "initial smell," rises from the sake before tasting. These include sake's more obvious characteristics, such as the earthiness of junmai styles and fruitiness of ginjo.

The second part, "fukumi-ka," describes the new fragrances that are introduced by breathing through the nose while sake is being tasted. The "fukumi-ka" reveals elements of the sake that provide balance; astringency and bitterness should be present, but neither in excess.

The "modori-ka" is the third dimension of aroma, those present in the finish of the sake after you've sipped it. These subtler aromas often include notes like star anise, fennel, and white pepper.

FLAVOR AND TEXTURE

When you’re tasting sake, look for flavors that confirm your initial impressions of the sake's aroma. You can also evaluate the texture of the sake. Honjozo styles are meant to be pretty straightforward with a light texture. Junmai sakes are richer and the overall impact tends to be more powerful.

TEMPERATURE

James Bond: “No, no. I like sake. Especially when it's served at the correct temperature, 98.4 degrees Fahrenheit, like this is.”

Although Bond knew his stuff, we’d like you to try each of the sakes at different temperatures.  Sake is one of the most flexible alcoholic beverages when it comes to serving temperature.  Find one that you enjoy and pour yourself a glass right out of the fridge. Take a sip every five minutes and note changes in taste as the sake slowly warms to room temperature. You'll be amazed at the variations in flavor and impression. Earthier, richer styles of sake can be especially good at room temperature or just warmer; the warmth enhances the sweetness and umami of the sake. Fruitier styles can be very tasty when served slightly chilled.

DRYNESS AND SWEETNESS: SAKE METER VALUE

Here's a game to try: before you look at the SMV that appears on the label of your sake, evaluate whether the sake tastes dry or sweet to you. SMV stands for the Sake Meter Value, or "nihonshu-do". The SMV system measures the density of sake compared to the density of water. Sake with more residual sugar will be heavier, so the SMV measures sweetness. Negative numbers on the scale (as low as -5 or so) are the sweetest. Sakes with a +10 SMV are considered dry, or "karakuchi," while sakes with a +15 SMV are considered extra dry, or "cho-karakuchi." It might be difficult to tell the difference in sweetness between two sakes with +3 and +4 SMV value, but you'll taste big differences between a -5 and a +7. Presence of acidity in the sake may make it taste less sweet despite residual sugars being present.

HAVE FUN!


Take your time as you explore sake, and don't worry about getting the answers 'right' because everyone's palate is different.  Consider the scent, the color, flavor, and texture, how sweet it is and what temperature makes it taste the best to you. You'll learn about sake, and you'll learn about what kinds of sakes you prefer.

No comments:

Post a Comment