Wine Words

We are the American Wine Society, or, Società Vinicola Americana, or, Sociedade Americana do Vinho, or, Société Américaine du Vin, or, Amerikanische Weingesellschaft.

No matter how you say it, or which region of the world it comes from, wine is in the name. We all know it, and we all love it! Wine is the perfect beverage for any occasion (at least we think so), however this drink we all love can be daunting at times. Don’t fret.

It doesn’t take a professional to use words like “bold,” “oaky,” or “chocolatey” when you're tasting wine, but going beyond the basics is like trying to learn an entirely new language. Scoring real sommelier points (or at least impressing your dinner guests) requires a little extra knowledge. The secret of sounding knowledgeable is not worrying about extensive tasting notes, flavor profiles, or technical terms. Your Pittsburgh Chapter of the AWS is here to help!

Angular: You can use the term angular in reference to either the flavor of the wine (typically for a red) or the acidity (typically for a white). In both cases, the term “angular” is used to describe the way the wine hits your palate. Angular wines tend to hit a sharp point of flavor as opposed to softly sliding over your tongue.

Elegant: An elegant wine makes up for in style what it lacks in palate punch. Rather than being bold and forward, elegant wines are more delicate, which is to say, light on your palate. Elegant is most commonly used as a descriptor for whites and sparkling wines. Elegant can also be used for a lean and supple red. In either case, the flavor profile should be subtle but layered, so rather than extra bold notes you can pick out right away. You need to wait for a minute or two to pick up on the tasting nuances.

Minerality: This applies to both aroma and taste. Mineral notes aren't exactly a spice, not an herb, and not fruity. They’re more inorganic. Think of flavors or aromas that have a kind of wet rock finish. They remind you a little bit of the smell of graphite from your No. 2 pencil, or taste something like the smell of asphalt after the rain. Odd, but you'll know it when you taste it.

Muscular: As you might guess, muscular wines are big and pair best with a sizable serving of protein. These wines are aggressive and high in tannins, almost to the point having a chalky feel. Although a white could technically be muscular, the term most often applies to big, flavorful, unsubtle reds.

Supple: Suppleness is the tannic content of the wine. This is determined by how long the wine is permitted to ferment on the skins. Rather than flavor, this term refers more to the texture of the wine. How does it feel when you roll it over your tongue? White wines, which typically remove the tannic skins early in the fermentation process, tend to be more supple, while bold reds tend to take on an almost chalky feel when you sip them.

Now you just need to uncork a few bottles and start tasting to put these into practice.

The next wine tasting will be the

Wines of Love and Romance

Wednesday, February 12 at 7 p.m.

Evergreen Community Center.

La Vigilia

Click here for the video!

Eating Seven Fishes Christmas Eve!

 

When the Christmas shopping frenzy finally settles down, it’s time to focus on the most important parts of the holiday season - family, food and wine! Many families partake in the Feast of the Seven Fishes dinner, and most use a variety of seafood styles throughout the meal. We’ve heard of one of our favorites, a crab cake appetizer, that made the menu. But, that’s the beauty of this fish feast, there are no rules as to what you must cook, which gives the chef freedom to be creative. But it also makes pairing the right wines a little tricky.

To give an exact wine pairing for the feast is difficult, as there are dozens of different ways to prepare each of type of seafood. It’s more about the consistency and texture of the fish and the sauces. For example, an appetizer of raw oysters and clams will need a far different wine than Clams Casino or fried oysters. Below are some easy and general wine pairings for various styles of seafood that you might serve for your seven fishes feast.

RAW/CHILLED SEAFOOD:

The general rule of thumb is the lighter the dish, the lighter the wine.  Try a Sancerre for this paring. The minerality in these high acid, citrus flavor wines seem to bring out all the flavors and freshness in any chilled seafood dish. A dry, high acid Finger Lakes Riesling will also work with all those raw bar goodies. Pinot Grigio is a popular light white wine for this part of the meal, but, unless it’s very good, it’s a little too neutral. But if Pinot Grigio is your choice, try one from the Collio region.

BAKED/FRIED SEAFOOD:

For dishes like baked cod or seared scallops, you still want to keep it light but with a bit more body. Albariño can work well as these wines still have that acidity but have more body and structure. Chablis is a solid option too, as these typically unoaked wines made from Chardonnay have all the qualities we love about Chardonnay, but without the oak influence.

 If your fish is getting fried, you’ll have to step up to bigger whites like Burgundies or California Chardonnays, and here is when you can start trying the reds. The thicker and heavier the batter, the bolder you can go on the wine. Lighter Chianti Classico and Pinot Noir can work for a delicate sautéed dish, but if you are going with the deep fryer don’t be afraid to pull out a Zinfandel or Syrah, especially if you’re cooking something with a little spice in it.

SEAFOOD WITH PASTA:

For openers, make sure you use the same color wine as you do for the sauce. For white sauce dishes, like linguine with white clam sauce, you can still use the same Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc as you served for the raw/chilled seafood. But, for something a little different, try an Italian white for these dishes and go with a quality Soave (made from the Garganega grape) or even a Lacryma Christi.

This wine’s name means “Tears of Christ” and comes from an ancient story. There are many variations, but in the Italian version of this myth, Lucifer was cast out of heaven. As he fell towards earth, he grabbed a chunk of heaven. When he reached the ground, he dropped it on the foot of Mt. Vesuvius. When Jesus saw this, he wept. Those tears ran down the mountain and were made visible to humans in the streaks of lava flows down the sides of Vesuvius. When Christ’s tears finally reached the ground, vineyards grew at those spots. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, pineapple and peach and good minerality due to the volcanic soils.

Red sauce equals red wine, preferably something  a little high on the acid scale. Tomato sauce is high in acid so you’ll want a wine that can match it allowing the food and wine to complement one another. A quality Barolo or Chianti Classico Riserva are excellent choices.  

HEARTY SEAFOOD:

This is also a sauce-based pairing in terms white or red wine, but because lobster, king crab, swordfish, etc. can be very meaty and weighted, you can try red for both sauce options. An oaky Chardonnay with a broiled fish and white wine or butter-based sauce can be over the top in terms of oak aging (as many of the California Chardonnays are). The acidity and fruit should stay in balance. Try a Finger Lakes Chardonnay or a Pouilly-Fuissé.

If your bacala is swimming in a sea of marina sauce, you can stay with the same red options from the pasta course. However, here’s where you can expand into some of the bigger reds, as those meaty seafood selections can hold up to the weight of those dishes. A Super Tuscan or Brunello would be the traditional big red pairings, but if you have been waiting to open one of your aged Bordeaux or Napa wines, this is the time to do it.

Whatever you do, make sure to open something special in the good company of family and friends this Christmas, as that is always the BEST pairing of the season.

Turkey Day

Let's experiment!

People count on AWS members to be knowledgeable about wine. It's normal.

Normally, the  pairings for your Turkey Day meal are reds made from Pinot Noir or Gamay grapes and whites made from Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. Occasionally, American Zinfandel, Champagne, or whites such as Chenin Blanc, Riesling, or Gewürztraminer will get invited, too. These are the "usual suspects" for one reason: they’re good with standard Thanksgiving food staples.

We would never advise anyone against these conventional wine picks.  People love Beaujolais (made from Gamay) on any day of the year. That said, the holidays are an opportunity to try food and wines that are unexpected, as we learned at our last tasting. Part of the fun of celebration is having things you don’t normally eat or drink, because a holiday is ultimately just a party. Let's get away from "normal" for one day!

Instead of domestic Chardonnay or Chablis, try semi-dry Vouvray 

Wines from the Loire Valley are popular right now, and the grape Chenin Blanc is having a renaissance. Vouvray is an appellation from the Touraine region of the Loire that produces whites from Chenin Blanc grapes with a little Arbois mixed in. They range from dry to sweet and can be sparkling, semi-sparkling, or still.  What’s great about Chenin Blanc is that it isn’t necessarily the most fruit-forward white, so a semi-dry bottle can have notes like honeysuckle and spice. If you’ve ever dipped a French fry into soft-serve ice cream, you’ll understand why the contrast of slightly sweet with salty works here.

Instead of domestic or French Sauvignon Blanc, try one from the Marlborough region of New Zealand

Marlborough’s unique terroir gives these wines a palate with tropical notes like grapefruit or passion fruit. While tropical fruit probably isn’t the first flavor that comes to mind when you think about fall in the U.S., the acidity of these wines matches up nicely with the tartness of cranberry sauce. When buying a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc for Thanksgiving, look for one with a moderate ABV that won’t overpower the food.

Instead of Champagne...get a Champagne

When it comes to Champagne, just spend the money to get real, capital-C Champagne. A brut nature (no sugar added during secondary fermentation) Blanc de Blancs (made entirely from Chardonnay) is great.  If you splurge for Champagne, you should enjoy it before your meal unless you’re  a Rockefeller heir, in which case, you should drink Champagne with every meal.

Beyond Champagne, there are lots of sparkling beverage options for actually pairing with your food. A French sparkling wine made in a region other than Champagne is a great option as they can have really great flavor components for a more reasonable price. Try a Crémant de Loire or a Crémant D’Alsace. Another great choice is to get a Cava from Spain.

Another great sparkling beverage to have with your Thanksgiving meal is a sparkling apple cider! Apples are very autumn, ciders are cheap, and they have a lower alcohol content, which makes them approachable for most of your guests and appropriate for marathon eating and drinking. The stewed fruit flavors, round mouth-feel, and crispness accent the saltiness in savory dishes, enhance the fresh flavor of vegetables, and tone down the sweetness of your sweet sides.

Instead of domestic Pinot Noir or Burgundy, try Jumilla Monastrell  

Jumilla is a DO in southern Spain. A number of red grapes are grown in the region, but Monastrell (also known as Mourvèdre or Mataró) is the most successful varietal grown there.  You'll find enough acidity in the wine for it to clear the palate, and the notes of vanilla, cocoa powder, green pepper, and olive are smooth and offer some complexity with the food pairings. The flavor characteristics are subtle enough not to clash with the cranberry sauce or the green beans, but they're really good with a bite of turkey and gravy.

Instead of domestic Zinfandel, try an Amarone della Valpolicella

Not only is Zinfandel good with game meat, but we grow a lot of the stuff in the U.S., making it an American classic in some ways. They’re also notoriously high in alcohol, making them great for pairing with assertive foods like BBQ and roasted peppers. If you can find one with high enough acidity, these wines are balanced enough not to overpower Thanksgiving dishes, but the price tag for a good California zin can be high.

Like a Zinfandel, Amarone della Valpolicella is a powerful wine high in alcohol, bursting with flavors. They usually run well above the $20-a-bottle mark, but regulations in the wine producing regions and sub-regions of France, Spain, and Italy make wine quality more consistent across price points. Amarone della Valpolicella is made near Venice from mostly Corvina grapes left to partially desiccate in whole bunch clusters before being slowly fermented. This process brings out intense raisin, currant, fig, and fruit compote richness while rounding out tannins. Because it is high in alcohol, you’ll want this wine to come last. Think of it as the wine to drink with your plate of seconds and up to your pre-pie nap.

If you can’t find an Amarone on the cheaper end, look for a “ripasso” wine instead. Ripasso della Valpolicella are red wines that are “passed through” the pomace (grape leftovers) from Amarone, lending them some dried fruit flavor and viscosity. Because this process is less labor-intensive, they run on the cheaper side.

Remember, unusual wine pairings are holiday fun in an experimental way, so don’t stress. You can’t pick a “wrong” wine. And, if you discover an unconventional pairing that works, tell us about it!

Are you ready?

Relief from Holiday Stress

‘Tis the season, so, our November tasting is geared toward helping you with your Holiday planning. For an American Wine Society member, getting ready for “Sparkle Season” means more than just putting together gift lists for loved ones and family, it also means stocking up on the wines that you’ll be taking along to holiday parties, family events, and festive occasions. Among other things, that means the rules of wine buying are rewritten: We're not just buying for ourselves, which is difficult enough, but we're buying for friends and family.

Somehow, during this holiday chaos, we're supposed to be able to choose something fantastic. With that in mind, here are some wines for the winter holidays.

Thanksgiving Dinner: Pinot Noir

Thanksgiving calls for a special red wine that will pair well with turkey and the traditional side dishes of the season, including cranberry sauce. A great option would be Pinot Noir, especially one from Oregon or Sonoma. While there are plenty of great Pinot Noir options from France, this is an American holiday! So, bring a real crowd-pleaser that everyone can enjoy. There’s always time to enjoy a glass of Beaujolais Nouveau over the next few days when you and your family are enjoying Turkey Day leftovers.

Friendsgiving Dinner: Shiraz

Unlike Thanksgiving, which is more of a formal affair, Friendsgiving is a low-key event. You want an understated wine that’s nice enough to share with friends, but not too fancy. So why not bring along a bottle of Shiraz from Australia? Look for bottles from Barossa Valley, one of the most renowned winemaking regions of Australia when it comes to Shiraz.

Holiday party with the family: Barbera

If you’re like most people, you’ll be traveling during the holidays in order to get together with relatives, close family, and friends. And you’ll want to have a go-to bottle of wine for the occasion. This is a wine that should pair well with any of the big holiday feasts, such as Thanksgiving or Christmas, and offer enough of a compromise so that it appeals to as many people in your family as possible. With that in mind, the perfect choice for a holiday party with the family is an affordable, versatile Barbera. For good reason, Barbera has been called “the ultimate party wine.” It offers the right mix of fruit and spice notes to pair well with traditional holiday meals.

Holiday party with co-workers: Etna Rosso

Sicily’s Etna Rosso has been experiencing a real surge in popularity, so one way of showing your co-workers that AWS members are completely on-trend is by bringing a bottle of Etna Rosso to your next corporate office party. Etna Rosso is very similar to Pinot Noir, in that it has flavors and aromas of ripe red fruit. And the very drinkable Etna Rosso has a bright and refreshing finish, which makes it suitable for any festive occasion. Best of all, Etna Rosso comes with a very compelling backstory that you can share with co-workers: the vineyards used to produce Etna Rosso are aligned along the sides of an active volcano in northeastern Sicily!

Holiday dessert: Port

Sweet dessert wines may be an acquired taste for many, but one classic that pairs extremely well with everything from blue cheese to chocolate is Port from (where else?) Portugal. If you’re looking for a more complex flavor, look for bottles marked LBV (for Late Bottled Vintage).

Holiday gift idea: Cabernet Sauvignon

When it comes to giving gifts around the holidays, it’s always best to go for the classics. You can’t go wrong with a Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Even casual wine lovers will appreciate the extra care that goes into selecting a wine from California’s most famous wine region.

Holiday gift idea: Moscato

Moscato is one wine varietal that is trending bigly right now, as sweet wines are experiencing a surge in popularity. So why not opt for the very best Moscato wines in the world? Those are the ones produced in Italy’s exclusive Asti wine region. In comparison with the typical under $10 Moscato wines available for sale in “beverage wine” section of the State Store, a Moscato D’Asti wine is richer and nuanced, but still sweet, fresh and low in alcohol.

Feast of the Seven Fishes: Chardonnay

During the holidays, red wines tend to outsell white wines, and for good reason: many of the traditional holiday meals pair best with a bottle of red. But there is one festive occasion when it is possible to bring along a bottle of white, and that’s the Feast of the Seven Fishes. To accompany all the seafood dishes, you’ll want to choose a versatile white such as Chardonnay, which is a proven crowd-pleaser.

The Festivus Dinner: Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot 

Everyone is invited to Festivus dinner! The modest meal traditionally consists of sliced meatloaf on a bed of lettuce, with a dish of peas on the side. Our favorite choice would either be a medium-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon, or Merlot with a bit of spiciness to it. Meatloaf tends to be a little dry and sometimes bland, so these two wines will add a bit of flavor and depth. Remember: Don’t eat anything that ever wore feathers!

Christmas Dinner: Valpolicella

Choosing a great Christmas wine is different than choosing a great Thanksgiving wine. The weather is colder, the meals are getting heavier, and people naturally gravitate to big red wines. One option is Valpolicella, which stands up well to most holiday meals, thanks to its structure. But it won’t overpower any of the dishes that Grandma has spread out on the table. The Valpolicella DOC wines have notes of plums, cherries, dark chocolate, black fruit, and spices.

Kwanzaa: Rosé 

During Kwanzaa dinners, many eat soul food from the American south, or African dishes. If you’re enjoying soul food, consider a sparkling rose wine, Gewurztraminer, or something with a little acidity to cut through the gravy. For spicy African foods, try a sweet wine to balance out the savory flavors in the meal. Whatever you do, stay away from high tannin reds if your Kwanzaa meal will include greens. You don’t want to match bitter with bitter, it just never works

New Year’s Eve: Champagne

Ok, this one is a no-brainer. You simply can’t go wrong with a bottle of Champagne for New Year’s. But just keep in mind that, if you are planning on enjoying a sparkling wine throughout a long holiday meal, then you might also want to consider Cava (from Spain) or Prosecco (from Italy). You can then save the champagne for a celebratory toast at midnight.

Of course, these are just suggested wines. With any of them, there are plenty of substitutes. For example, you could easily swap out a bottle of Chardonnay for a bottle of Viognier, or a bottle of Barbera for a Rhône GSM (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre) blend. In many ways, that’s what makes wine so interesting. As soon as you think you know the “perfect wine” for a particular occasion, along comes a wine from a completely different part of the world that tastes even better.

So, as you start to put together your gift lists for the holiday season, take some time to consider which wines it might be worth stocking up on in advance. You won’t have to worry about picking out a great wine at the last minute, and you might just impress your family members (or significant other) with your knowledge of wine.

Wine for Labor Day Weekend

Maybe you can’t attend Rib Fest at Heinz Field this year, so you’re going to have your own barbecue. If you’re the host and you like beer, then beer is on the menu. But, if you’re invited to a Labor Day party, showing up with a six-pack of PBR isn’t a very good look. Some situations demand a good bottle of wine.

You’re an AWS member! People expect that you’ll always have the right wine for any occasion. However, choosing a bottle to bring to an event can be challenging. You want something that will impress your hosts. You also want a crowd-pleasing wine that pairs well with food. That's why we've listed a few suggestions for you.

Usually, wines from Europe are a safe bet. Wines from Italy, France, and Germany tend to have more acid than their American counterparts, which compliments food’s flavor. But “European wines” is just a general rule-of-thumb. Let’s get more specific.

You’re invited to: A block party or cook-out in the park

The food: Burgers and dogs

The wine: A dry Rosé is a great match for a condiment-covered hot dog. But, when you add burgers to the mix, you’ll want a wine with enough body and richness to bring out the flavors of the fatty meat while also complementing the “funkiness” of hot dogs. Malbec is a good choice.

You’re invited to: A cookout at your boss’s

The food: Grilled chicken

The wine: Viognier goes well with a lot of foods, so it’s a safe bet if you don’t know what’s being served. It is, however, great with grilled chicken. There are plenty of good ones out there, but since this is your boss, you may want a wine with some wow-factor. Condrieu is the French version and is very highly regarded (but expensive).

You’re invited to: A buddy’s backyard barbecue

The food: Ribs and brisket, or any smoked meats

The wine: If you’re having smoked dishes or meat with tomato-based sauces, go with a red Zinfandel. A good California Zin is big, peppery and fruity in a way that pairs very well with barbecue. For a step up, look for “Old Vine” or “Single Vineyard” on the label.

You’re invited to: Barbecue at the parent’s home

The food: Grilled red meat

The wine: If you don’t win over the parents, your relationship’s going to stall sooner or later. This is not the time to be frugal. An indulgent California Cabernet Sauvignon is the right choice here. Walk in the door with something from a big-name California producer and you’re sure to win approval. There are many excellent options.

You’re invited to: A cookout on the beach

The food: Seafood

The wine: If you’re dining on oysters and shellfish, or a Frogmore stew, it’s hard to top a good Sauvignon Blanc. New Zealand makes many delicious, refreshing wines that are easy on your wallet. For a step up in quality and price, look for a Sauvignon Blanc from California. If fish is on the menu, a good Californian or French Chardonnay will be fantastic. 

How Did We Discover Wine?

In a letter to the Abbe Morellet in 1779, Benjamin Franklin wrote that the strategic location of the elbow is proof that God wants us to drink wine. After all, had God placed the elbow lower on the arm, our wine glass would never make it all the way to our mouths. Had the elbow been placed higher, our glass would shoot straight past our lips.

“From the actual situation of the elbow,” Franklin wrote, “we are enabled to drink at our ease, the glass going directly to the mouth. Let us, then, with glass in hand adore this benevolent wisdom. Let us adore and drink!”

Who Invented Wine?

That isn't a question that can be answered, because scientists and historians believe that wine wasn’t really invented, it was more discovered. Basically, they believe that the discovery of wine was made by ancient peoples when they found their grapes had spoiled and the natural yeast created fermented grape juice. Many believe that this is when the wine making process was invented and this is where most stories about the origins of wine begin.

Just Imagine. . .

You're chipping away at Paleolithic stones and arguing with Fred and Barney about whose spearhead is the pointiest. As usual, you're keeping an eye out for any cave lions that might be on the prowl. As long as the birds keep chirping, you know it’s OK. Then you hear it.  It’s not the silence that signals a predator, but a new flurry of activity from your FWS (feathered warning system).

You see the birds are feeding on fermented fruit. They’re unable to stop eating even after they're too full to fly. So, you sample it too, tasting the juice of spoiled, wild grapes. The more you drink, the less you worry. This drink, which was terrible at first, feels like magic.

Archaeological Evidence

Although there's no record of how wine was first discovered, archeologists have a theory in which Stone Aged people followed the cue of animals eating fermented fruit. Finding it to be pretty good, the Paleolithic people (who lived from earliest mankind to about 10,000 B.C.E.) brewed their own version by stuffing animal-skin pouches with wild grapes, allowing the grapes to spoil and then drinking the liquid. Not only did the beverage provide the same socially lubricating benefits as it does today, it was probably used as medicine, too.

Archaeologists have discovered grape vines dating to 60 million years ago. For much of human history, winemaking was a skill that didn't need to be recorded. It was passed from generation to generation by family members. The first written account of wine appears in the Old Testament and tells of Noah surviving the flood, leaving the ark, and planting grape vines to make wine.

When archaeologists discovered 9,000-year-old rice and honey wine residue on pottery shards in central China, they had clear proof of ancient fermentation. It was a find like other parts of the world. In the Middle East, grape remnants have been found in 7,400-year-old jars, accompanied by bits of tree resin thought to be a wine preservative. In Egypt, medicine vessels in the 5,000-year-old tomb of Pharaoh Scorpion I were found to be spiked with wine.

What may be the world's oldest intact bottle of wine was discovered in 1867 while excavating a Roman stone sarcophagus under a vineyard near Speyer, Germany. The bottle, its contents preserved, dates from about 325 C.E. and is on display, still unopened, at Germany's History Museum of the Pfalz

Wine Myths and Fables

There are a few well known wine myths and fables that credit different parts of the world for the invention, or discovery, of wine. Here are a few of the more popular stories.

Dionysus

This is arguably one of the most well-known wine fables. In Greek mythology, Dionysus, son of Zeus and his mistress Semele, invented wine while living in the ancient Mount Nysa among nymphs. This is one of the reasons why Dionysus is often referred to as the god of Wine.

The Persian Woman

This story of the Persian woman and fermented grapes has many folklorists crediting a woman for inventing wine. It has at least two different versions. Here they are:

Version One

A Persian Princess had found herself out of favor with the King of Persia. When she heard this news, she attempted to commit suicide by consuming a jar of spoiled grapes. Instead of dying, she found herself feeling better and acting a lot happier. Eventually she passed out, but when she woke up, she found that the King liked her new attitude so much that he admitted her back into his good graces.

Version Two

A Persian woman found herself sick with a headache and drank from a jar she used to store grapes. The grapes in the jar had fermented. The woman got drunk and passed out. When she woke, her headache was gone.

Let's Just Say…

Since no two stories will ever agree on who invented wine, let's just say that the world invented it. Though there are ways to carbon date the oldest wine bottles and new archaeological discoveries regarding wine are being made, there is just no way of proving who invented wine first. So next time you are enjoying a glass of your favorite wine, raise it up and give a nod to the Persian Princess, Dionysus, Noah or whomever, in thanks that the wine we love so much was even discovered.

Aerate or Decant

Aerate or Decant?

In Aladdin, Robin Williams’ character, Genie, says, "It's all part and parcel, the whole Genie gig. Phenomenal cosmic powers and an itty-bitty living space." What does this have to do with wine? Well, just like Genie, it may have been bottled up in a small confined space for a long time. All it wants to do is get out and get some air. Then, it’s ready to deliver its power. But sometimes that power falls short, and we need to coax the Genie out of the bottle. That’s where aeration comes into play.

The process of aerating wine is usually called "letting the wine breathe." Most of us pour the wine into a glass and swirl it around. While this may seem “snobbish”, it does allow the wine to expand, and coat the glass, releasing the aromas of the wine. The wine has been in a relatively oxygen free environment inside the bottle, so the addition of oxygen can enhance it. However, not all wines need to breathe, and in some case, they shouldn’t.

The goal of aeration is contact with oxygen. Just popping the cork and letting it sit isn’t enough. The oxygen to wine surface contact is small in the neck of a wine bottle. Swirling in the glass is the simple way to “open up” a wine, but to really get some oxygen in there the wine may need to be “aerated”. Handheld aerators like Vinturi or Respirer, for example, expand the surface area of wine, which allows the air to mingle with it. The wine gurgles through the bubbler, and out into the glass or decanter, softening the tannins of young or bold wines. The aerator will easily do the trick in minutes and is appropriate where time is a concern.

So which wines should be aerated? In general, young red wines, with a lot of tannin (Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Syrah, for example), are the best, but these aren’t the only ones. Even white wines can benefit from some aeration. Heavier Chardonnays can open, and even whites that are over-chilled will taste better with a little room temperature air in them. But again, red wines are the focus. Remember, that as wines age, tannins soften and are balanced by other flavors and a stronger bouquet. But in young red wines, particularly heavy reds, the tannins can be overwhelming. Aeration won’t increase the complexity of a young wine, like an older wine gains in the bottle, but it does soften and smooth out the flavor.

The trick is determining what wines need to be aerated. Not all wines need to breathe, and sometimes it’ll do more harm than good. Older wines, about 30 years or older, can become completely oxidized and lose their flavors if exposed to air for too long. If you’re unsure, check a site like www.Cellartracker.com to see tasting notes from others. You’ll get free advice on how the wine tastes, and how long it took to open, or even if the wine isn’t holding well, and is over-the-hill.

What about decanting versus aerating? Many people confuse the two practices. A wine aerator is a violent approach to opening a wine which adds oxygen into the liquid to improve the taste. Decanting is similar, but the main purpose is to remove the sediment in older wines, leaving it in the bottle, while the wine is poured into a different container. A sommelier will typically put a light (or, in the old days, candle) under the bottle, and slowly pour the wine into a glass container until they start to see sediment. The sediment is left in the bottle, and the wine in the decanter is then poured into glasses. Sediment is common in wines of as little as 10 years old, depending on whether they were filtered or fined.

In general, the aeration “rule of thumb” is that the more tannin a wine has, the more time it’ll need to aerate. Some people insist on aerating tannic reds for two hours, while others say 20 minutes. The practical approach is to adjust the process to the wine itself, and to test it during aeration. When it tastes good to you, drink it.

There you have it. The difference between aeration and decanting is time, and technique. When it comes to your favorite bottle of wine, it's time to put the aerator to use for quick results, but also to use the proper decanting technique when time is on your side, and you’re preparing an event for friends and family. Wine can stay in a decanter for hours without spoiling (depending on how much air it needs). Presenting wine in a decanter makes for a more special experience versus using an aerator.

Remember that oxygen can be your friend or your enemy. Old wines will fade fast when exposed to oxygen, and younger wines will open. The trick is finding the balance. So, pick your favorite vintage, relax and, as Quicksilver Messenger Service sang, “Have another hit – of fresh air” (https://youtu.be/6j92RqFP4CM)

Wine Pairing Tips

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

Were you ever at a wine tasting where you had no idea what the wine snobs were talking about?  You saw a person with his or her nose buried in an oversized wine glass and you heard, “Oh yes, yes you can really taste the hand-picked fruit in this 18-month-old Cabernet, which has been aged in barriques of French oak. It pairs perfectly with this mackerel.”  That’s usually how it goes as they swirl around their glass and do deep breathing exercises into it.

But, sometimes, they’re wrong. Wouldn’t it be nice to one day, perhaps at you next fancy work event, to turn to one these know-it-alls and say, “No, Mr. Parker, the fish that you’re eating actually doesn’t go with the wine you’re swirling.”

We’re AWS members. We know the rules. White meat and fish go with white wines; red meats, game, red sauces and stews go with red wines, right? But what do you do if you order a spicy Thai curry, or a vegetarian chili, or Uber Eats is bringing you a quinoa bowl from CoreLife? If you’re a lacto-ovo-vegetarian, gluten-free, no-high-fructose-corn-syrup-or-soda, salt-free foodie, the options can get narrow. Still, some foods actually do not go well with wine because of a chemical reaction. To make sense of the best wine pairings, it helps to recognize the worst wine pairings, too.

Why would the wine gods play a trick like that on us? The answer is that some foods contain chemical compounds that clash with those in wine. For instance, artichokes contain cynarin, which tricks people’s taste buds into thinking that there are tart flavors. A wine like Sancerre will taste strangely sweet. Some folk find the reaction is reversed and artichokes with wine make foods taste bitter.  You would honestly be better off drinking a (forgive me) beer!

Asparagus contains methyl mercaptan, a sulfur compound, which gives wine a vegetal character. Asparagus doesn’t need to be enhanced with wine. (Maybe a Gruner Veltliner. . .)  Also certain fish are not good. Cod, haddock and mackerel are examples, as are shellfish, since they’re high in iodine, which is why red wines don’t pair well with them. The iodine content reacts with the tannins in red wine and makes both the fish and the wine taste metallic (and terrible). Fish oils react badly with tannins, so don't serve mackerel with Cabernet, unless you enjoy the taste you get from licking a roll of pennies. With oily fish, skip the reds and go white. Any crisp wine: Albariño, Vermentino, or Sauvignon Blanc make good options. The only exception is Salmon. Try that with a nice Oregon Pinot Noir.

Egg yolks are also difficult to pair with wine, because they tend to coat your palate and kill flavor (not to mention wine is not offered at breakfast in most countries). Heavy egg dishes like quiche, frittatas and custard served at brunch, however, tend to pair best with a Pinot Bianco, Gris or Grigio.

Strangely, olives are tough to pair because they tend to be stong. They’re soaked in vinegar and not a particularly easy flavor to match with wine. Anything pickled can draw astringent properties out of the wine and give the wine an unpleasant flavor.

General Guidelines in Pairing

When in doubt, try to follow these simple suggestions. Whenever possible, try to match the wine of a region with the foods of the region. “If it grows together, it goes together.” For example, Italian sausage and spaghetti with red sauce with a good Chianti or a BBQ ribs with a Chilean red. Start with simple cheese and wine pairings and then expand to entrees and desserts.

Try buttery with buttery. Yes, a butter sauce on chicken or a light cream sauce over pasta matches well with a buttery Chardonnay or a Spätlese Riesling. Would you like a little comfort food but without the high calorie count? That’s the way to go. It’s all about portion control anyway, right?

Contrast spicy with sweet. Thai peppers or heavy garlic in Asian cuisine go well with Rieslings or Gewürztraminers. The contrast allows you to enjoy both the dish and wine’s flavors. A sweet red is best with spicy Latin/American food due to the use of chilies and peppers in the dishes. So, Sangria (as we found in our last tasting) is good with Mexican cuisine. Germany makes some nice, well balanced sweet reds that would be a good choice as well.

Try tannic reds with high fats. For example, Cabernets go well with a sirloin, fatty bacon or a brisket. The tannins cut the fats in the meat and make for another good pairing. A heavy cream or parmesan sauce can pair nicely with a bold red like a Cabernet. Again, tannins cut fat and that will make the meal more enjoyable.

Although, general rules of thumb are good concerning what foods to avoid when making a wine pairing, try not to carry the Unabridged Wine Bible with you at all times. Keep in mind that it’s actually more important to match your friends and the occasion with the wine than worry too much about the food and wine pairing. Besides, overthinking anything causes wrinkles!

Cheers!