Aerate or Decant

Aerate or Decant?

In Aladdin, Robin Williams’ character, Genie, says, "It's all part and parcel, the whole Genie gig. Phenomenal cosmic powers and an itty-bitty living space." What does this have to do with wine? Well, just like Genie, it may have been bottled up in a small confined space for a long time. All it wants to do is get out and get some air. Then, it’s ready to deliver its power. But sometimes that power falls short, and we need to coax the Genie out of the bottle. That’s where aeration comes into play.

The process of aerating wine is usually called "letting the wine breathe." Most of us pour the wine into a glass and swirl it around. While this may seem “snobbish”, it does allow the wine to expand, and coat the glass, releasing the aromas of the wine. The wine has been in a relatively oxygen free environment inside the bottle, so the addition of oxygen can enhance it. However, not all wines need to breathe, and in some case, they shouldn’t.

The goal of aeration is contact with oxygen. Just popping the cork and letting it sit isn’t enough. The oxygen to wine surface contact is small in the neck of a wine bottle. Swirling in the glass is the simple way to “open up” a wine, but to really get some oxygen in there the wine may need to be “aerated”. Handheld aerators like Vinturi or Respirer, for example, expand the surface area of wine, which allows the air to mingle with it. The wine gurgles through the bubbler, and out into the glass or decanter, softening the tannins of young or bold wines. The aerator will easily do the trick in minutes and is appropriate where time is a concern.

So which wines should be aerated? In general, young red wines, with a lot of tannin (Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel and Syrah, for example), are the best, but these aren’t the only ones. Even white wines can benefit from some aeration. Heavier Chardonnays can open, and even whites that are over-chilled will taste better with a little room temperature air in them. But again, red wines are the focus. Remember, that as wines age, tannins soften and are balanced by other flavors and a stronger bouquet. But in young red wines, particularly heavy reds, the tannins can be overwhelming. Aeration won’t increase the complexity of a young wine, like an older wine gains in the bottle, but it does soften and smooth out the flavor.

The trick is determining what wines need to be aerated. Not all wines need to breathe, and sometimes it’ll do more harm than good. Older wines, about 30 years or older, can become completely oxidized and lose their flavors if exposed to air for too long. If you’re unsure, check a site like www.Cellartracker.com to see tasting notes from others. You’ll get free advice on how the wine tastes, and how long it took to open, or even if the wine isn’t holding well, and is over-the-hill.

What about decanting versus aerating? Many people confuse the two practices. A wine aerator is a violent approach to opening a wine which adds oxygen into the liquid to improve the taste. Decanting is similar, but the main purpose is to remove the sediment in older wines, leaving it in the bottle, while the wine is poured into a different container. A sommelier will typically put a light (or, in the old days, candle) under the bottle, and slowly pour the wine into a glass container until they start to see sediment. The sediment is left in the bottle, and the wine in the decanter is then poured into glasses. Sediment is common in wines of as little as 10 years old, depending on whether they were filtered or fined.

In general, the aeration “rule of thumb” is that the more tannin a wine has, the more time it’ll need to aerate. Some people insist on aerating tannic reds for two hours, while others say 20 minutes. The practical approach is to adjust the process to the wine itself, and to test it during aeration. When it tastes good to you, drink it.

There you have it. The difference between aeration and decanting is time, and technique. When it comes to your favorite bottle of wine, it's time to put the aerator to use for quick results, but also to use the proper decanting technique when time is on your side, and you’re preparing an event for friends and family. Wine can stay in a decanter for hours without spoiling (depending on how much air it needs). Presenting wine in a decanter makes for a more special experience versus using an aerator.

Remember that oxygen can be your friend or your enemy. Old wines will fade fast when exposed to oxygen, and younger wines will open. The trick is finding the balance. So, pick your favorite vintage, relax and, as Quicksilver Messenger Service sang, “Have another hit – of fresh air” (https://youtu.be/6j92RqFP4CM)