Monday, March 28, 2016

WIne Talk




WINE CONSERVATION – AMPHORAE & RESIN

Today, we can all enjoy wine all year long. This wasn’t the case when wine made its first appearance sometime during the Neolithic period (8000-3000 BCE). Early vintners would store their wine in clay jars, which they sealed with clay stoppers. Conservation wasn’t ideal and the wine quickly oxidized. Since harvest only came once a year and people presumably wanted to drink wine for as long as possible afterwards, winemakers used various additives (gypsum, lime, marble dust, myrrh, and in some cases lead) to help delay spoiling and avoid infections which cause them to become acid, malodorous and moldy.

To today’s palates, many ancient wines would be terrible! Across many different cultures (Anatolians, Egyptians and Phoenicians), the practice of adding boiled tree resin (pitch) persisted for many centuries. Tree resin (notably from Cyprus) described as “the color of honey … [with] a fleshy consistency” would help delay souring of the wine. Due to its antibacterial virtue, resin was used as a preservative.

During that time, unless wine was consumed right after harvest, it would have tasted like old tree sap and very little fruit. The flavor doesn’t seem appealing to modern wine drinkers, but people in many ancient cultures apparently liked it. Pliny the Elder, a resin connoisseur, was one of them: “It is a peculiarity of wine among liquids to go moldy or else to turn into vinegar and whole volumes of instructions how to remedy this have been published.”


You can still taste a remnant of this practice in the Greek wine Retsina. Retsina was born of the need to preserve and ship wines in pine pitch sealed vessels. Due to the pine oils, Retsina was thought of as wood nymph tears, though how tears were collected from those shy nymphs is not recorded.

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