Drinking Responsibly

Organic, Biodynamic and Natural Wines

One of the biggest misunderstandings of the wine industry is that the fermented grape juice you're drinking isn't just fermented grape juice. Pesticides and fungicides are used on the grape vines, and additives like sulfites and acids are used to balance the flavor and stabilize the wine as it develops in the cellar. As with produce, these added chemicals can make products less healthy and farms less sustainable. But because winemakers aren't required to include such ingredients on their labels, many people are unaware of this.

Our next tasting will be organic, biodynamic and sustainable wines. These three distinct approaches to winemaking all aim to make production more environmentally sound. The sustainable wine industry is booming in Europe, and has recently started to catch on in the United States too, as our National Tasting Project will demonstrate.

Taking an organic, biodynamic or sustainable approach to the winemaking process lets wines reflect the vintage and terroir, but it also makes them less consistent, as if decoding labels wasn't hard enough already. Organic, biodynamic, sustainable and natural wines tend to cost more, too. Vineyards are more vulnerable to bad weather and diseases, and the approved fertilizers and weed killers are more expensive.

With that many variables, a little advice goes a long way when it comes to picking sustainable wines. But a sense of adventure can pay off in unique drinking experiences. So what exactly is the difference between these three designations? And when is it worth it to spend the extra money? We’ve explained the terminology in a previous post so you can decide for yourself.  Here’s a brief reminder of what these types of wine are.

Organic

There are essentially two kinds of organic wine. The first, labeled "made with organically grown grapes," uses 100 percent USDA-certified organic fruit. Once it's pressed and fermenting, however, 72 USDA-approved chemicals may be added. That includes sulfites, small amounts of which occur naturally in all wine and act as a preservative.

Only USDA-certified "organic" wine has no added sulfites, though the other approved chemicals can still be added, to acidify the wine or add sugar.

Buy it if: You're among the 7% of the population that is allergic to sulfites.. Some people report that sulfites, which are banned from use on raw produce, trigger allergic reactions including hives, headaches, and asthma.

Pass if: You're a certification skeptic. The USDA organic label doesn't mean very much. Like in any other job, you need skills and talent to make good wine.

Biodynamic

Though the term "biodynamic" has become trendy in America in the past decade or so, its principles trace back to the Roman Empire. It's almost a religious way of growing grapes. You have to follow the moon. It's a lot of different things you have to respect, and it implies you don't use many chemicals.

Whereas an organic farmer can use organic fertilizer, a biodynamic farmer must improve crop biodiversity and fertilize with compost and manure. Producers are certified by Demeter USA, which only allows up to 100 parts per million of added sulfites.

Buy it if: You're a terroir fan. Biodynamic farming is more sustainable, and therefore results in wines that have fewer chemicals and hold a better expression of the terroir.

Pass if: You're uncomfortable with more progressive approaches to winemaking. When you have to tell someone that they have to bury manure in a cow's horn in your vineyard, they look at you in a weird way.

Natural/Sustainable

Natural/sustainable winemakers are the bohemians of the wine industry. There is no real definition for natural or sustainable wine. Everyone has their own understanding. Generally, it means that you don't use any other chemicals, just grape juice, and you let it ferment. Sulfites are acceptable, though generally kept under 20 or 30 parts per million. (In this sense, both organic and biodynamic wines can be considered natural wines.)

Some natural farmers say the rules of biodynamic farming are unnecessarily restrictive and prefer to change their methods year to year, depending on the season and the nature of the vineyard. As a result, each "natural wine" vintage is unique.

Buy it if: You like surprises. If the varietal lends itself to aging, like Rieslings or Pinot Noirs, natural wines tend to be better with some age.

Pass if: It's a high-stakes evening. Natural winemaking is a newer practice in the United States, so winemakers here still have a lot to learn. In Europe, where the tradition is older, winemakers have more experience making natural wines.

There's a tendency to think of natural and sustainable winemaking as hands-off winemaking, but the opposite is actually true. It takes a lot of hard work and a certain amount of gamesmanship. But when the winemaker pulls it off, the results can be good.

It’s not a total gamble, though. Hand harvesting and whole-cluster fermentation can reduce the need for SO2 when grapes enter the winery. Extended lees contact provides some antioxidant protection during fermentation. Harmful bacteria have a harder time living in stainless steel or concrete than in old oak. Shipping in temperature controlled containers (a fairly common practice) minimizes the risk of spoilage in transit.

If you do take a chance on a conscientiously produced wine, you won't just be looking out for the planet. You'll have a wine that’s a reflection of a unique time and place, and tastes unlike anything else. Sometimes, that’s a good thing.