The Blue Wine of Franconia
Is that a cheese that smells like feet? Is it a kind
of hamburger? No and no. Lemberger (not Limburger, which is a cheese from an
area on the Belgian/German/Dutch border) is a red grape grown in the
Württemberg area of Germany. The grape's history probably extends back into the
middle ages, though the first recorded mention of it was in 1862. It, like many
older grapes, has had a myriad of names, but the only other one an American is
likely to see on a bottle beside Lemberger or Blaufränkisch is Kékfrankos (the
Hungarian version). The name Lemberger arose in Germany because during the 19th
century the wine was imported to there from Lemberg, a location in Lower Styria
(now a part of Slovenia, then part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire).
Lemberger is a mixed bag. It’s a dark skinned and
can have good mouth-drying tannin and spice but it can also make light wine
that’s not very good. It’s grown all over central Europe. In the Burgenland region of Austria, Blaufränkisch
is highly regarded. It’s also popular in the Czech Republic, in Slovenia, in
Croatia, and in Hungary where it’s a main component of the Egri Bikaver (aka,
Bull’s Blood, a blended wine that can be powerful or awful depending on the
producer).
The wine is not a big part of the American wine
market for several reasons. One is the multitude of names, all complex for the
average person to read or pronounce. The
simplest and most widely used reason by American wineries is that the name,
Lemberger, is too suggestive of the strong-smelling Limburger cheese (to which
it has absolutely no relation). Another reason is that while the grape can make
good wine, it’s relatively obscure on the world market. Quality wines made from this grape in modern
times probably go no farther back than a couple of decades.
Much like Italian spaghetti sauce, typical Lemberger
is something that doesn't exist. There are
two main and diverse styles. One is a
strong, full-bodied wine like some of California's bigger Zinfandels and the
other is lighter and softer, similar to Pinot Noir. What are common to both
styles, however, are a bluish-red color and a "spicy" nose and taste.
The underlying taste elements are typical of good reds, notably dark-berry
flavors such as black cherry, blackberry, or red currant, plus that note of
spice. All versions will age, but some are designed for cellaring and will turn
into smooth, almost silky wines. The others, more assertive and fruit-forward, are
better young.
Though the wine is made all over the Old World, it’s
mainly in Washington State that New World Lemberger is grown (though Australia
is apparently starting to increase production of Blaufränkisch wines). In
Washington, styles vary ranging from light, Pinot-like wines to heavier
Zinfandel-like versions, or even to fortified wines in the style of port.
Some makers are trying to avoid the false
Lemberger/Limburger association by using various proprietary names (such as
"Blue Franc"). The lack of domestic interest in Lemberger makes the
wines something of a steal for selective (that means AWS members) bargain
hunters. Locally, Kavic Winery makes a
medium-bodied version that’s very tasty. Theirs is labeled as BLAUFRÄNKISCH.
Cocktail Party Fodder: Lemberger has been called
"the Pinot Noir of the East" because of its popularity and reputation
in Eastern Europe.
Check the blog often for news, tips and tasting notices.
No comments:
Post a Comment