Digestivo

YOU’RE GONNA GIVE ME AGITA! 

            

Picnics, barbeques, graduation parties, weddings, Bastile Day, Ferragosto, a visit from your in-laws – there are MANY reasons that we could list. Each of those can give you that feeling that your stomach is about to burst into flames. Every culture has its methods for taming agita, that bad stomach feeling you get after you’ve had too much bracciole. The French have Chartreuse, and all through Europe, eaux de vie can snap you out of a food induced coma. In Germany, herbal schnapps are intended to calm the stomach.

No country, though, can match Italy for the variety of digestive preparations available, and for good reason. The Italians view a smoothly running digestive system as crucial to health and happiness, and therefore there are dozens of ways to keep agita under control.

With an alcohol content that can range from 20 to 40 percent, an amaro may seem a little potent at first. Rather than that final shove over the edge, I prefer to think of it as an invigorating path back from the abyss.

WHAT IS AMARO?

For those not familiar with Amari (the plural of Amaro), a little info may be appropriate. First, amari are a class of liqueurs known as “bitters” which are made by infusing a distilled spirit with a mix of roots, barks, spices, herbs, fruit peels and botanicals. The word “amaro” means “bitter” or “sour” in Italian.

Second, not all amari are bitter tasting. There is a wide range of styles ranging from those with a touch of sweetness to those with a bitter, even medicinal taste. Therefore, it’s probably best to sample several different styles and identify those that best meet your taste preferences.

While amari are not particularly well known in the U.S., they are common after-dinner drinks in Italy. Sipping an amaro is an integral part of the Italian dining experience, a rationale for continuing the dinner conversation and enjoying the convivialita of family and friends.

wHERE DOES AMARO COME FROM?

Amari have a long and varied history. They can trace their roots (so to speak) back to the herbal tonics and elixirs formulated centuries ago in the monasteries and abbeys in the Italian landscape. Ancient monks had a penchant for experimenting with elixirs believed to have medicinal properties and protection against plagues or evil. The income generated from sale of the liqueurs was also valuable in supporting their religious work.

As they became more popular in the 1800s they began to be commercially produced. While a few religious orders are still producing amari, most today are made by commercial businesses. Every producer guards its house recipe and ingredients list. In some cases, only a few employees or family members may know or have access to the recipe and list of ingredients. It is not unlike the secrecy surrounding the formula for Coca-Cola or a Kentucky distillery’s recipe for its bourbon.

wHAT’S IN AN AMARO?

The list of amaro ingredients can vary considerably from one producer to another. A given brand can include dozens of ingredients. Some are ones you’d find in a kitchen spice rack such as ginger, star anise, citrus peel or zest, mint, cardamom, sage, chamomile, cloves and cinnamon. Others are less familiar, more exotic ingredients like cinchona bark, wormwood and gentian among other ingredients. A bottle of Amaro can contain a health-food-store-cabinet of botanicals, roots and herbs.

An amaro is best enjoyed as an after-dinner digestivo served straight up in a tumbler or shot glass at room temperature. However, it is also popular as a before-dinner aperitivo served over ice with an orange peel.

Some popular brands of Amari generally available include (in alphabetical order):

Averna Amaro (about $32) – from the island of Sicily, this bittersweet Amaro has ample maple syrup and caramel flavors and a gentle, bitter-herbal finish.

Fernet Branca (about $29) – developed in Milan in 1845, Fernet Branca has become one of Italy's more unusual and iconic drinks. Its syrupy texture and bitter, medicinal flavors make it something of an acquired taste and not for the faint-of-heart. Some try it once and will leave it at that. Nonetheless, it is extremely popular in Italy and has many enthusiasts that simply love it.

Lucano Amaro (about $27) - from the Basilicata region in southern Italy (the word “Lucano” is derived from Lucania, the ancient Latin name for Basilicata), this Amaro has a deep, dark color with a reddish tint and pronounced caramel flavor and a finish with a nuanced sweetness. 

Meletti Amaro (about $15) – this amber-colored Amaro has herbal aromas of cinnamon and caramel fragrances and a pleasant, slightly bitter finish.

Montenegro Amaro (about $28) – despite its light rust color, this Amaro from Bologna has rich herbal aromas that lead to slightly sweet flavors and a citrus finish.

Nonino Quintessentia Amaro (about $38) – Nonino’s Quintessentia (kwin tess en’ cha) is produced in the Friuli region in northeastern Italy. It is made from a grappa distillate infused with herbs and then aged in small oak barrels (barriques) for five years. It has pronounced herbal aromas and an interesting mix of spicy and sweet flavors that are cleaner and less syrupy than other Amari. 

Ramazzotti Amaro (about $22) – made in Milan, this bittersweet liqueur has coffee and orange-peel flavors and a taste of ginger on the finish.

As you can see, Italians are obsessed with their digestion. For an Italian, the notion of digestion relates specifically to the process that occurs after a meal when the stomach content settles. It is deeply influenced by the combination of foods, when they were eaten and at what temperature. So cappuccino is off limits after 10 am because milk supposedly inhibits digestion. Icy liquids are also bad for digestion and may even cause the dreaded congestione (an abdominal cramp) that will apparently kill you. Salad comes at the end of the meal because it helps you digest.

An Italian host will typically offer a digestivo at the end of your meal. A thimble of this typically bitter mix of herbs, roots, plants, spices and alcohol is supposed to hurry along the five courses (or more) that you just consumed. If that doesn’t work, there’s always Brioschi, which can be found in every Italian kitchen. So, drink up!  It’s good for you!

Cin cin!