What would Mrs. Paul pair with her fishsticks?

In Science Now Daily News, it was reported that Japanese researchers have discovered why fish and red wine often clash.  They discovered that there are minute traces of iron in some red wines, particularly those grown in soils high in certain minerals, and that these trace elements can leave a very unpleasant “fishy” aftertaste.  Not the clean fish smell of the ocean, but more like the day-after fish smell of the dumpster behind Wholey’s.

The research also seems to answer why some red wines can complement seafood and fish, while others make you run for the motion sickness bag.  The researchers identified an “iron threshold” of 2 milligrams per liter.  Any red wine containing more than this amount spoils the seafood pairing.

Before you start trying to pair your Catch of the Day, first think about what type of fish you ordered. Certainly, you understand that a salmon steak is far from the same as an ocean scallop. So it shouldn’t surprise you to learn that not all seafood pairs the same. For the majority of seafood, pairing wine comes down to the type of fish you’re having and what its qualities are.

 Start by breaking fish entrées into the following categories (from Wine Folly):

Light & Flakey: Perhaps the most popular options, fish in this category are typically thin filets with a mild flavor. Examples include:

• Tilapia
• Sea Bass
• Flounder
• Perch
• Pollock

Medium & Flakey: Denoted by a larger body and thicker flakes, these fillets are thicker and offer more flavor. Cod and catfish are prime examples of this category, but other popular choices include:

• Trout
• Snapper
• Grouper
• Halibut

Strong Flavored: Typically, fish in this category cause people to wrinkle their noses. They tend to be “love it or hate it” fish and offer strong, salty flavors. Fish in this category include:

• Anchovies
• Herring
• Sardines
• Mackerel

Rich and Meaty: If the word “steak” attaches to your fish, it falls into this category. The fish steaks will be thick, hardy, and substantial in texture. Examples include:

• Salmon
• Swordfish
• Shark
• Tuna
• Mahi-Mahi

Once you’ve established what you’re eating, it’s time to think about what you’re drinking. As a general rule, order a white wine. It’s really hard to go wrong and if you’re feeling unsure, any white wine will be safe. But if you’re feeling adventurous…

Light & Flakey fish have such a delicate flavor that they need to have a delicate wine. Something with a citrus note would be best. It’s important not to overpower the flavor of the fish, so consider a dry Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio, or Sauvignon Blanc. If you’d like to try something new, try a sparkling wine, including the Spanish sparkling red known as Cava, for an unexpected twist!

Medium Flakey fish have a bit more flavor and can stand up to a wine with a little more body. Anything that is aged in oak is sure to please. Dry Riesling can be a new experience with a medium fish, though the classics of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Gris will also work well.

Rich and Meaty fish are the exception to the white wine rule. It’s no surprise that red wine lovers tend to favor these fish, as they are about the only thing in the sea that can balance the body and tannins found in red wines. Feel free to try a Rose, white Pinot Noir, or even a Lambrusco with these fish. Of course, a champagne or Chardonnay will also be fine.

Strongly Flavored fish have their own following, and if you’re among them, finding a wine to complement those strong odors and flavors can seem like a difficult task. You’ll find many red wines that work well, including Pinot Noir, Cava, and Lambrusco. Whites that pair well include a dry Riesling and Champagne.

We’re not done yet!

 Just as you’ve got the fish type figured out and researched how to pair it, there is yet one more thing to consider. Preparation style, including sauce choices, can completely change how to pair your fish. A good rule of thumb is, “the darker the sauce, the darker the wine.” Here’s another quick cheat sheet to help clear it up.

• Zesty Sauces– Light white wines with citrus notes
• Sweet (Teriyaki style) Sauces– The sweeter the sauce, the sweeter the wine should be.
• Spicy Sauces– If you taste chili powder, reach for the Riesling.
• Curry Sauces– These are sweet and hot. Wines like Riesling or Moscato work best.
• Savory Sauces– Do you smell basil, parsley, dill or capers? Order a Sauvignon Blanc.
• Smoked- These tend to be a bit drier, and pair well with a sparkling wine.

By the way, any Chardonnay will work with the fish sticks.

Check the blog often for more tips, news, and recipes.

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Salsa!

AWS members are boundary pushers, game changers and pairing experimenters, always looking to switch classic routines. It’s true that you can never go wrong with traditional regional pairings, like German beer with pretzels, white zinfandel with squirt cheese or, of course, Tequila and tacos. If there are chips and salsa you can bet there’s going to be a margarita found somewhere nearby. For your next taco Tuesday, before grabbing that bottle of Patrón (or, if you’re on our budget, Jose Cuervo), consider these wine and salsa pairings.

Salsa Roja with Dry to Off-Dry Riesling

Most taco nights generally start with some communal salsa roja and tortilla chips on the table. Salsa roja, a puréed dip of tomatoes, chili pepper, garlic and onion, needs to have a high acid white, potentially with a touch of residual sugar. There’s no better pairing for this sauce than a dry to off-dry Riesling, particularly from the Finger Lakes region of New York. The slight sweetness from the residual sugar in an off-dry white will balance out the heat from the chili pepper, while the acidity works to bring out the various layers of flavor in the sauce. Off-dry Chenin Blanc is also a great match.

Mole with Zinfandel

Mole sauce is a perfect excuse to pair red wine with tacos. Generally speaking, red wines, which are higher in tannin and alcohol than white, are a bad with spicy food. The higher alcohol percentage makes even mildly spicy dishes feel hotter. However, the less intense components that make up Mole (chocolate, garlic, sesame seeds, plantains, etc.) are perfectly complemented by a full bodied, New World red. Zinfandels from California are a great pairing; their fruit forward palates and flavors bring out the rich layers of ingredients that go into Mole sauce. Darker chili flavors and sweet undertones are enhanced by the juiciness of a Zinfandel.

Tomatillo with Sauvignon Blanc

Tomatillos (those green, mini-tomato like vegetables from Mexico that you never can figure out when you see them in the Giant Eagle) are the base to this green salsa, flavored with cilantro, oregano, cumin and salt. While acidity is also important in this pairing, the tropical fruit flavors of American Sauvignon Blanc make an ideal pairing for this sauce. The stone fruit flavors and  acidity of a Sauvignon Blanc accent the spices used to flavor salsa verde without overpowering the dip itself. Verdejo from Spain can also be a great match as well.

Pico de Gallo with Albariño

In Spanish, Pico de Gallo means "beak of the rooster". This chunky tomato dish is made with onion, jalapeño and cilantro, making it an ideal pairing for the Albariño. Again, the key component here is the high acidity of the Albariño grape. The acidity cuts through the spice of the jalapeño pepper, yet brings out the flavors of onion and cilantro. Look to Galicia for some examples of what Spain can do with this white varietal or further south to Portugal, where Albariño (otherwise known as Alvarinho) finds its origins.

CHECK THE BLOG OFTEN FOR MORE TIPS, RECIPES AND NEWS

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What is Fortified Wine?

When asked what Port he liked to drink, he replied, “That which belongs to another”.

For every wine enthusiast there comes a time when he or she discovers fortified wines: Sherry, Port, Madiera, Marsala and Vermouth. What does “fortified wine” mean? Does it mean that they have more booze? Correct! But how does it get there? And what’s the point? Isn’t wine good enough the way it is?

As the saying goes: “Necessity is the mother of all invention.” What’s the one thing you need when you’re about to sail across the Atlantic Ocean in a boat for months on end in search of new land and people to exploit? Booze.  Lots of it and for plenty of reasons.

Fortunately, the early explorers were aware of wine spoilage issues that were especially prevalent back then. The screw-cap was still a few hundred years away, and preservative technology sometimes involved lead seals or pine tar. Somewhere and somehow, someone realized that adding booze to the wine made it last longer! Today, fortified wines offer a wide array of styles, flavors, complexity and history.

Be a good wine explorer and check ‘em out.

Sherry

Believe it or not, sherry is stored in someone’s butt!  Until the 1970s Sherry was shipped in export butts with a capacity of 500 litres for bottling in Britain and the empty butts went to the Whisky industry for re-use.

Sherry is one of the oldest known fortified wines, originating in Jerez de la Frontera. Typically made from the Palomino, Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel grapes, Sherry begins as a still white wine that has been fermented totally dry. After fermentation is complete, brandy is added to get the alcohol levels up to between 15-18%. Sherry takes this whole process to another level.

Sherry is classified into many styles, as we learned at our recent Sherry tasting, and it’s aged in different ways, with various levels of oxidation. It’s a bit confusing, but an amazing process.

• Fino - This is the salty Spanish ideal for every pinxtos, or tapa, and fares very well with fish and shellfish. Try a chilled glass of fino with fresh cracked walnuts.
• Manzanilla - Manzanilla is the ideal partner for fish and shellfish and sardines in particular. As is the case with Fino, it also makes an excellent match for cured meats.
• Amontillado and Palo Cortado - Due to its multifaceted aging process, these wines can multitask extremely well with numerous dishes. Poultry is great (especially quail), or try with smoked fish, aged sharp cheeses or tuna. Also, mushroom risotto or chestnut soup.
• Oloroso - Break out the scented olorosos with the main course: thick pork chops or any game meat. For after dinner, pair with mature cheese.
• Pale Cream - These are great as an aperitif or with brunch, chilled. Try with fresh tropical fruit.
• Cream - Of course you can pair with pastries, cakes and fresh fruit flan, but why not go try glazed ham. For starters, try chilled with soft, creamy cheeses and nuts. The cool kids are serving this on the rocks with a slice of orange.
• Pedro Ximenez - The ice cream thing actually works, especially if you have real vanilla bean flecked, with fresh cracked black pepper, and drizzle PX over the top. You can also break out the most potent blue cheeses or dark chocolate here. The bitterness can temper some of the intense sweetness of the wine.

1.      If it swims drink Fino

2.      If it flies drink Amontillado

3.      If it runs drink Oloroso

Port

Port is another fortified wine that is fairly common, especially as an after-dinner drink. Unlike Sherry, the grapes are allowed to ferment about 50% of the way, so that there is still natural sugar remaining when the spirit is added. Yeasts happily consume the grapes’ natural sugars and convert them to alcohol, but they simply cannot survive once the spirit is thrown into the mix. Thus, fermentation stops.

The wine was known as Oporto wine, since that was the town from where the wine was shipped to England.  Port comes largely from the Duoro region of Portugal and is made from native red varieties such as Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Tinta Cåo.

This famous dessert wine also has a large range of styles and aging processes, but all Port must age for a minimum of two years in barrel before release. It’s a rich treat that will also take your next attempt at a steak sauce up a few notches.

• White Port - White port typically is chilled as an aperitif, or poured over ice, and paired with olives, nuts, gouda and similar cheeses, or even seafood.
• Ruby Port - In addition to the milder types of blue cheese, ruby port pairs well with red fruits and desserts.
• Tawny Port -Try stronger blue cheeses, various nuts, dried fruits and desserts such as pecan pie, caramel apple desserts, etc. with tawnies.
• Late Bottled Vintage - Pairings are similar to those for Vintage port, and include strong blues (e.g., Stilton and Cabrales), dark chocolates and nuts, especially walnuts.
• Vintage Port - For a fine old vintage port, sipping it in front of a fire is a fine pairing.

Madiera

Did you know that Madeira was poured during Thomas Jefferson’s toast at the signing of the Declaration of Independence in 1776, or that it was served at the inauguration of George Washington shortly thereafter?

It's made with red or white grapes, but mostly red grapes. Color isn't really important because the wine is deliberately oxidized and heated so that it has an amber or tawny color. It’s a sweet wine, but the levels of sweetness change.  You can have dry Madeira, which has a touch of sweetness, or you can have sweet Madeira, which is in fact quite rich and sweet. It always has a caramel, nutty flavor whether it's a young wine or a very old wine.

• Sercial – Serve this style of Madeira as an aperitif with salty foods, almonds, walnuts, assorted olives, soups that are heavy on broth and the like.
• Verdelho – Serve a Verdelho with richer appetizers like prosciutto, mushroom dishes or caviar.
• Bual - Consider serving Bual as a dessert wine with fruit-based or caramel desserts.
• Malmsey – Pair a Malmsey Madeira with cheesecake, tiramisu, crème brulee or dark chocolate-based desserts.
• Madeira - It will typically come with a label "hint" as to whether you can expect it to be sweet (doce), dry (seco) or somewhere in between (meio doce - "medium sweet"). Try Madiera with a Reese’s peanut butter cup!

Marsala

Nothing against your grandma's chicken Marsala, but the time has come to learn about a Sicilian wine that deserves better than being reduced to poultry sauce. Marsala wine comes from western Sicily and its name derives from the town. Marsala is the oldest Italian DOC wine, with an average alcohol content of about 18%.

The aromatic and sugary richness of the grapes used to make Marsala comes from the method of growing them in a ‘sapling’ style, a very ancient method, dating back to the culture of wine itself. All types of Marsala should be served in a ‘tulip’ glass, with tall stem. It is an excellent meditation wine and can also be enjoyed before or after dinner, especially the ‘Superiore Riserva’.

There are actually a lot of flavors that Marsala can have. The most common among those are vanilla, tamarind, brown sugar, and stewed apricot. It can range from a dry style to a sweet one and it is served around 55-degrees.

• Marsala is traditionally served between the first and second courses of a meal. It is best served on its own, or with tasty cheeses.

Vermouth

Technically, vermouth is not a “fortified” wine in the same sense that the others are.  Taking its name from the German word "Wermut," meaning wormwood, vermouth is an aromatic fortified wine flavored with herbs, roots, bark, flowers and other botanicals. It comes in two basic styles: sweet and dry, each with different cocktail uses.

The earliest commercial vermouth came out of late 18th Century Italy (Martini & Rossi was a famous maker of the time who's still a giant in the market today), and for that reason any sweet, red vermouth made in this tradition now, regardless of its country of origin, is known as "Italian vermouth."

In the early 19th Century, French winemaker, Joseph Noilly, arrived on the scene with his own style of vermouth, which was pale in color and much drier. Noilly Prat is still a leading maker of this style of aromatic fortified wine, which is still referred to as "French vermouth" regardless of where it was made.

In Europe Vermouth is traditionally drunk before a meal, like the alcoholic version of an appetizer, but we Americans prefer ours in cocktails.

• Pair red vermouth with cheese drizzled with honey.
• Pair white vermouth with, what else, OLIVES!

P.S. Yes, Thunderbird is a fortified wine!

Don't forget to check for more tips and wine news on the blog!

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Digestivo

YOU’RE GONNA GIVE ME AGITA! 

            

Picnics, barbeques, graduation parties, weddings, Bastile Day, Ferragosto, a visit from your in-laws – there are MANY reasons that we could list. Each of those can give you that feeling that your stomach is about to burst into flames. Every culture has its methods for taming agita, that bad stomach feeling you get after you’ve had too much bracciole. The French have Chartreuse, and all through Europe, eaux de vie can snap you out of a food induced coma. In Germany, herbal schnapps are intended to calm the stomach.

No country, though, can match Italy for the variety of digestive preparations available, and for good reason. The Italians view a smoothly running digestive system as crucial to health and happiness, and therefore there are dozens of ways to keep agita under control.

With an alcohol content that can range from 20 to 40 percent, an amaro may seem a little potent at first. Rather than that final shove over the edge, I prefer to think of it as an invigorating path back from the abyss.

WHAT IS AMARO?

For those not familiar with Amari (the plural of Amaro), a little info may be appropriate. First, amari are a class of liqueurs known as “bitters” which are made by infusing a distilled spirit with a mix of roots, barks, spices, herbs, fruit peels and botanicals. The word “amaro” means “bitter” or “sour” in Italian.

Second, not all amari are bitter tasting. There is a wide range of styles ranging from those with a touch of sweetness to those with a bitter, even medicinal taste. Therefore, it’s probably best to sample several different styles and identify those that best meet your taste preferences.

While amari are not particularly well known in the U.S., they are common after-dinner drinks in Italy. Sipping an amaro is an integral part of the Italian dining experience, a rationale for continuing the dinner conversation and enjoying the convivialita of family and friends.

wHERE DOES AMARO COME FROM?

Amari have a long and varied history. They can trace their roots (so to speak) back to the herbal tonics and elixirs formulated centuries ago in the monasteries and abbeys in the Italian landscape. Ancient monks had a penchant for experimenting with elixirs believed to have medicinal properties and protection against plagues or evil. The income generated from sale of the liqueurs was also valuable in supporting their religious work.

As they became more popular in the 1800s they began to be commercially produced. While a few religious orders are still producing amari, most today are made by commercial businesses. Every producer guards its house recipe and ingredients list. In some cases, only a few employees or family members may know or have access to the recipe and list of ingredients. It is not unlike the secrecy surrounding the formula for Coca-Cola or a Kentucky distillery’s recipe for its bourbon.

wHAT’S IN AN AMARO?

The list of amaro ingredients can vary considerably from one producer to another. A given brand can include dozens of ingredients. Some are ones you’d find in a kitchen spice rack such as ginger, star anise, citrus peel or zest, mint, cardamom, sage, chamomile, cloves and cinnamon. Others are less familiar, more exotic ingredients like cinchona bark, wormwood and gentian among other ingredients. A bottle of Amaro can contain a health-food-store-cabinet of botanicals, roots and herbs.

An amaro is best enjoyed as an after-dinner digestivo served straight up in a tumbler or shot glass at room temperature. However, it is also popular as a before-dinner aperitivo served over ice with an orange peel.

Some popular brands of Amari generally available include (in alphabetical order):

Averna Amaro (about $32) – from the island of Sicily, this bittersweet Amaro has ample maple syrup and caramel flavors and a gentle, bitter-herbal finish.

Fernet Branca (about $29) – developed in Milan in 1845, Fernet Branca has become one of Italy's more unusual and iconic drinks. Its syrupy texture and bitter, medicinal flavors make it something of an acquired taste and not for the faint-of-heart. Some try it once and will leave it at that. Nonetheless, it is extremely popular in Italy and has many enthusiasts that simply love it.

Lucano Amaro (about $27) - from the Basilicata region in southern Italy (the word “Lucano” is derived from Lucania, the ancient Latin name for Basilicata), this Amaro has a deep, dark color with a reddish tint and pronounced caramel flavor and a finish with a nuanced sweetness. 

Meletti Amaro (about $15) – this amber-colored Amaro has herbal aromas of cinnamon and caramel fragrances and a pleasant, slightly bitter finish.

Montenegro Amaro (about $28) – despite its light rust color, this Amaro from Bologna has rich herbal aromas that lead to slightly sweet flavors and a citrus finish.

Nonino Quintessentia Amaro (about $38) – Nonino’s Quintessentia (kwin tess en’ cha) is produced in the Friuli region in northeastern Italy. It is made from a grappa distillate infused with herbs and then aged in small oak barrels (barriques) for five years. It has pronounced herbal aromas and an interesting mix of spicy and sweet flavors that are cleaner and less syrupy than other Amari. 

Ramazzotti Amaro (about $22) – made in Milan, this bittersweet liqueur has coffee and orange-peel flavors and a taste of ginger on the finish.

As you can see, Italians are obsessed with their digestion. For an Italian, the notion of digestion relates specifically to the process that occurs after a meal when the stomach content settles. It is deeply influenced by the combination of foods, when they were eaten and at what temperature. So cappuccino is off limits after 10 am because milk supposedly inhibits digestion. Icy liquids are also bad for digestion and may even cause the dreaded congestione (an abdominal cramp) that will apparently kill you. Salad comes at the end of the meal because it helps you digest.

An Italian host will typically offer a digestivo at the end of your meal. A thimble of this typically bitter mix of herbs, roots, plants, spices and alcohol is supposed to hurry along the five courses (or more) that you just consumed. If that doesn’t work, there’s always Brioschi, which can be found in every Italian kitchen. So, drink up!  It’s good for you!

Cin cin!