Old “New World” Wine – South Africa
The Dark Continent is a bit of a mystery. State
Stores have shelves of cheap bottles with various animals on the label, but
while people all over the world assumed there wasn't much out there
beyond Fairview's Goats Do Roam, South Africa has been busy making
really great wine. Since our next
tasting will be the Nationality Dinner featuring wine and food from South
Africa, we thought that we’d post a little primer.
NEW
WORLD VS. OLD WORLD
We've all explored French wine, tasted Chianti from Tuscany and Sherry from Spain, sniffed around Portugal, and drank German wines. All of those are what we call 'Old
World' wine regions. Being mostly American wine drinkers, we’re generally familiar
with New World wine regions. New World regions generally have a shorter growing
history than Europe, and some have a warmer climate. In general, wines from the
New World are labeled with the grape variety, rather than featuring the place
first.
While South Africa, which is about
three times the size of the state of California, is considered a “New World”
wine region, it's not new to growing wine grapes. Grapes were first planted in
1655 and soon after, the sweet wines of Constantia (near Cape Town) were praised
all over Europe.
Today, South African wines straddle
Old World and New. Because of the generally warm climate, South Africa's red
grapes in particular get very ripe and produce full, high alcohol wines. But
especially in the Western Cape, the ocean breezes help the wines retain the
acidity that keeps them fresh and food friendly.
WHAT
YOU'LL SEE ON THE LABEL
Most South African wine production
is located in the southwestern part of the country, called the Western Cape.
The wines are categorized into large geographical areas that are then broken
down into regions, districts, and wards. For example, Stellenbosch is a
district within the Coastal Region.
South Africa has a system called the
Wines of Origin that's similar to the American Viticultural Area (AVA) system
in the US. If you see a Chenin Blanc that says Wine of Origin Stellenbosch, you know a few things right away: the
wine has passed a taste test, it's made from at least 85% Chenin Blanc, and
every single grape came from Stellenbosch. Producers don't have to label their
bottles noting that they're a Wine of Origin, but if they don't, they're not
allowed to put a vintage, grape variety or region on the label.
POPULAR
GRAPES AND WINES
SAUVIGNON BLANC
If you're looking for good value as
the weather gets warmer, start with some South African Sauvignon Blanc. While
we often think of Sauvignon Blanc as a thirst quencher for before the meal
begins, the right bottle can also work well paired with richer entrées, like
halibut with creamy sauce.
CHENIN BLANC
For centuries, South African
winemakers called this floral grape Steen,
but in the 1960s, they discovered that it was actually Chenin Blanc, the same
grape that made the French region Vouvray famous. If you like
Pinot Gris or Sauvignon Blanc, then try this grape. South African examples are
usually very dry or made with just a little touch of sweetness that enhances
its scent.
PINOTAGE
Once thought of as smelling like
Band-Aids and barnyard, recent vintages of Pinotage are delicious. Good
examples of Pinotage combine blackberry and black cherry flavors with herbs and
a hint of smoke. They might remind you of Southern French blends.
SHIRAZ/SYRAH
These wines, sometimes called
Shiraz, sometimes Syrah, have blackberry and blueberry flavors but also an Old
World earthiness. Lovers of Australian Shiraz will especially appreciate this
wine.
CHARDONNAY AND PINOT NOIR
These two grapes find their home in
Burgundy, France, but are grown all over the world with mixed results. It's
tricky to find the right balance of sunshine and cool air (not to mention the
correct soil) that these grapes need to make excellent wine. A few regions in
South Africa have mastered that pretty well.
There's not much Pinot Noir grown in
South Africa, but many of the options you'll find are of very high
quality. If you like Oregon Pinot Noir, you'll like this too. It has lots
of acidity, medium body, and soft tannins.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON BLENDS
Are you looking for good Cabernet
Sauvignon at an affordable price? It's getting harder and harder to find, but
South Africa offers an impressive quality-to-dollar ratio.
MÉTHODE CAP CLASSIQUE
Cap Classique
is the name for traditional method sparkling wines made in South Africa. These
wines, which can be produced anywhere in the country, get their sparkle by a
second fermentation in the bottle, like Champagne. While the category is on the
rise, there isn't a huge amount of shelf space dedicated to these wines...yet.