Does your wine taste funny?
If you drink enough wine, you will eventualy come
across the “bad” bottle. It’s one of wine’s hazards and the cost of doing
business for a winery. But what’s troublesome is that three out of four times a
wine is sent back, but not because it’s flawed technically, but rather it’s
that the customer’s experience with wine is limited.
Most people who drink wine purchase it at a Wine and
Spirits Store, or, if you’re lucky enough to live in a state other than
Pennsylvania, at a large box store. It’s extremely rare that they would
encounter a bad bottle because these types of stores stock wine that is
produced on a large scale using industrial methods, whereby the wines are
manipulated, filtered, stabilized and, in general, robbed of any element that
could produce variations.
While these large scale wines are almost always
pleasant and technically consistent, they lack character and, for lack of a
better word, “soul.” With real
winemaking comes vintage variation, differences in taste and style as well as
some byproducts that are far from being flaws. They are, in fact, indications
of a wine’s quality and natural origin. Wine sales and wine consumption is at
an all-time high in the United States, so now is a good time to familiarize yourself
with these byproducts and what is and isn’t a flawed wine.
“Cooked” Wine
This is wine that has been exposed to high
temperatures either in storage and handling or in shipping. This leaves the
wine with a “baked” or “stewed” flavor. This can happen in hot weather if the
wine was shipped without temperature control. There will often be a bitter
sediment residue from the exposure if the wine is unfiltered, which is
something factory produced wines seldom see. Another telltale sign is wine
seepage from the cork and along the bottleneck, though this isn’t always the
case. Wine seepage can occur when there is a high fill at bottling and a wine
is stored horizontally. When in doubt, always taste the wine before assuming it
is flawed.
“Corked” Wine
This wine has the smell and taste of a moldy, musty
stench that reminds you of wet cardboard or a damp basement. This is caused by
faulty corks that have been in contact with a fungus, which usually comes from
the cork producers rather than the winery itself. This is commonly referred to
as “TCA.” The level of taint can vary, from a strong obvious odor to a “dried out”
taste to a lack of fruit to a slight hint of mold. This is the primary reason
why so many wineries choose to bottle with screw caps and that takes this
problem out of the equation.
“Oxidized” Wine
Although oxidation is an important process in the
production and maturing of wine, helping to soften a wine’s tannin or integrate
its acidity, unintentional oxidation can occur, causing the wine to be flawed.
To prevent this in the winemaking process, wine is “topped off” in tank or
barrel to prevent excessive exposure to oxygen. Exposure to oxygen can also
occur over time when a wine has been on the shelf for too long or opened for a
long period of time without any form of preservation (nitrogen, argon, etc.).
Some wines are produced intentionally with this style, which was the norm
hundreds of years ago. Examples are Sherry, Madeira and wines from the Jura and
northeastern Italy. A good rule of thumb is to know the wine style from
experience and weigh the wine in question against the normal characteristics of
the wine. When in doubt refer to your wine retailer or sommelier.
Sediments and Crystals
Sediments and crystals are the natural byproduct in
the production of handcrafted wine. Neither of these are true faults, but both
have the potential to spoil the experience unless they are understood.
Sedimentation within the bottle is a natural occurrence in many wines,
generally those designed to withstand some ageing, and it simply reflects the
solid matter settling out of the wine. It’s a sign of a naturally produced wine
and is really a plus. The cure for this is decanting. Tip: This is not a cause
for returning the wine.
Terroir
This one is a little trickier. For those accustomed
to drinking New World wines that emphasize fruit and lots of new oak, the first
taste of Italian or French wine may be a bit different. (This is a good thing.)
Many wines tend to be drier and oftentimes reflect the place they come from.
That can be the soil including rocks and minerals as well as the vegetation
that grows nearby. This taste of place is generally called “terroir.” For
someone expecting the sensation of drinking a “fruit bomb” this may be a
disappointment, but it isn’t a failure on the wine’s part.
It would be a boring world if all wine was produced
with identical results and identical sensations. There is no guarantee that
every wine will be to everyone’s taste. But that’s the beauty of wine. It’s ever changing and will meet you on
whatever level you’re prepared to go. When it comes to trying new wines, the
best way to ensure a great experience is to expand your tastes and your level
of adventure. We hope that we’re able to
help with that search during our monthly tastings.